RARE GRAPE VARIETAL RESOURCE

The Tressallier is an ancient varietal. The tip of the young branch is cottony, and the young leaves are green with bronze highlights. The branch has internodes with red streaks. Adult leaves are whole or quinquelobate, with a slightly open petiolar sinus, straight average teeth, the blade is involute, bubbled. The bunches and grapes are small. The bunch is conical and winged. The grapes are rounded.
Maturity is late. This varietal is hardy and fertile. It can be pruned short, even though custom dictates that it should be pruned long.
Its wines are light, with a good, low degree of acidity. It is often used to make sparkling wines, but it can also make good still wines.

Its presence under the name Sacy is recorded in the Yonne at the Abbaye de Reigny in the 13th century. It was largely grown in this department until the 18th century, as well as in France-Comté. Its history is also tied to the Saint-Pourçain appellation in the Allier (the Tressallier name could mean it comes from the other side of the river). The Saint-Pourçain wines were very famous in the Middle Ages, when they were served at the courts of the Capetian kings and the Popes in Avignon. In modern times, its consumption and vineyards have been expanded thanks to the river route, which allows it to reach Paris.
With the development of other routes of communication, this commercial advantage was lost, and in the 18th century it had to give way to Bordeaux and Burgundy wines. Phylloxera completed the job and the vineyard was significantly reduced. Today, the Saint-Pourçain appellation has 640 hectares, of which only 100 are devoted to the Tressallier; it is an ingredient in the making of white wines (between 20 and 40%, a range set by the appellation). Currently, it is Chardonnay that dominates the production of white wines, with a minimum presence of 50% established by the appellation.

The last historic varietal from this area, once highly reputed, the Tressallier survives in the current Saint-Pourçain appellation, and more anecdotally in the Burgundy. The historic base in Allier allowed it to develop special and typical features that could be an asset to revitalise a very marginal appellation in French production. Conversely, it runs the risk of wine-growers preferring ease and thus relying on the international fame of Chardonnay and Sauvignon. Currently, there are both impulses in the appellation, but the logic of varietal wines (mostly international) could very well cut the last link to a glorious history.

(Source: Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity – Ark of Taste) https://www.fondazioneslowfood.com/en/ark-of-taste-slow-food/?fwp_arca_settore=wines-and-grape-varietals-en)

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