RARE GRAPE VARIETAL RESOURCE

History: I grant you Sagrantino doesn’t qualify as rare – 1000 hectares today, 2/3 of which are to be found in the DOCG denomination, as compared to about 10 in the 1970’s.

Few, if any, varieties better epitomize this rise from the dead than Sagrantino, the grape of the small central Umbrian growing zone that goes by the name of its central commune.

This resurrection, as anyone who has read Autoctovino’s past posts (see below), is not the norm. Hectare expansion for most rare varietals is minimal or negative, as too many are being uprooted.

The origins of the variety are unclear and poorly documented, but the first written record of it is in Umbria in the late 16th century and kept at the Archive of Assisi.

Historically Sagrantino was used primarily for making sweet passito wines, partially drying the grapes to yield a thick, syrupy wine. It was in 1977 that Sagrantino Passito (the traditional wine) was elevated to DOC status. Since the 1970s however, the wines have been made principally in a dry secco style, with typically bold extraction and complete fermentation.

Sagrantino is a vigorous, relatively disease-resistant yet low-yielding vine. The grape has one of the highest tannic levels of any variety in the world. Its wines contain more tannin than those made from Aglianico or Tannat, and twice the level of Cabernet Sauvignon or Nebbiolo wines. The grape boasts (if that is the word) the highest level of polyphenols of any quality grape in the world—well ahead of Aglianico in second place, and a long way ahead of Cabernet Sauvignon in 20th position.

It creates wines that are inky purple with an almost-black center. The bouquet is one of dark, brooding red fruits with hints of plum, cinnamon, and earth.

Almost all of the world's Sagrantino is grown in Umbria, to make Montefalco Sagrantino and Montefalco Rosso wines. Granted DOCG status in 1992, Montefalco Sagrantino must be made entirely from Sagrantino grapes and requires a minimum of 37 months ageing before release, 12 of which must be in oak barrels. With production still relatively limited, the wine is not widely known outside Italy. Montefalco Rosso is a Sangiovese-dominant DOC red wine that requires between 10 and 25% of the blend to be Sagrantino.

Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG may lag far behind Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, or Aglianico and others in terms of volume of wine produced, of research papers devoted to it, of time passed since it first appeared on the radar of quality-wine watchers of the world. But it is capable, albeit so far in rare cases, of wines of awesome—for once the word is used advisedly—quality.

DNA tests have suggested that the Sagrantino of today bears no relation to any other grape of central Italy, or indeed of anywhere else.

Officially registered in the National Catalogue of Vine Varieties since 1971, the crowning moment came in 2003, when three of the clones developed by Caprai were approved and inscribed in the aforementioned catalogue.

Sources: (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sagrantino),  (https://worldoffinewine.com/news-features/sagrantino-montefalco-italian-red-wine-umbria);

VIVC: http://www.vivc.de/index.php?r=passport%2Fview&id=10457

Parentage: Unknown

Tasting notes: In its youth, Sagrantino is deeply colored and richly flavored with cherry fruit flavors and often floral or dried floral overtones, it makes for an intense, mineral and very structured, often higher alcohol red, with powerful musculature.  They are built for longevity.        

Sources: (https://worldoffinewine.com/news-features/sagrantino-montefalco-italian-red-wine-umbria); https://younggunofwine.com/wine-101/grape-varieties/sagrantino/

Food Pairings:  It perfectly suits roasted red meats, roasted lamb, game and strong cheese.   Serve at 20°C after oxygenating.   Source: (https://cantinadionigi.it/)       

Production areas:  Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG; Montefalco Sagrantino Passito DOCG; Montefalco Rosso DOC

Producers: https://www.autoctovino.com/grape/sagrantino/

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