RARE GRAPE VARIETAL RESOURCE

History: Ruzzese: the return of a great wine       

From the peasant's table to papal banquets, passing through an oblivion that lasted more than a century. Until a reappearance that promises to be triumphant.

The story of the recovery of the Ruzzese grape variety by the Cà du Ferrà winery has the feel of an adventure novel. And like any good story, it all begins (almost) by chance.

It so happens that Davide and Giuseppe, young owners of the Bonassola-based winery, attend a conference on recovered grape varieties, eager to learn about the history of Liguria's coastal viticulture. It is in Vernazza, a town in the Cinque Terre, that they discover the history of a unique Ligurian variety, unknown to most, even Ligurians: Ruzzese.

This ancient white grape variety, typical of eastern Liguria, in the area between Bonassola, the Cinque Terre, and the Colli di Luni, immediately won over the two enterprising producers. Not only because the revival of a forgotten grape variety would seduce any romantic and fearless heart, but also and above all for its incredible history. A history worthy of a King, or rather, a Pope.

Starting in the 6th century AD, Ruzzese wine, from the Ligurian coast where it was born and developed, quickly took off, and from the tables of peasants it reached Rome, destined for great things. Its smoothness, strength, and structure were soon appreciated by the most noble diners. Its qualities spread by word of mouth, until reaching the most coveted banquet: the papal table. It is said that Ruzzese wine was greatly appreciated by Pope Paul III Farnese, who reigned from 1534 to 1549, and that his porter, Sante Lancerio, a sommelier ante litteram, recommended it to the Holy Father as one of the finest wines Italy could offer at the time.

For more than four centuries, from the mid-16th century to the early 20th century, this distinctive passito dominated the most important tables, poured not only in the glass but also on the plate, as a condiment for soup, even by the Pope himself.

The End of a Dream

But the enchantment, as often happens, eventually fades. Toward the early 20th century, Ruzzese began a slow decline, gradually disappearing from Ligurian tables, and beyond, for more than a century. Phylloxera, the dreaded star-shaped insect that claimed so many victims, also struck the Ruzzese grapevine, reaching Europe from America and wiping out entire vineyards and bringing thousands of farmers to their knees.

History has it that the Marchioness of Villa Durazzo of Genoa, Pegli and Valpolcevera, to ease the suffering of the growers and reestablish viticulture, offered them vine shoots found in the Mediterranean scrub. These shoots gave rise to the Bosco grape variety, which would long eclipse the memory of the Ruzzese grapevine, replacing it for over a century.

Return to the Table

The Liguria Region played a crucial role in rediscovering the Ruzzese grapevine from its glorious past. Around 2007, it decided to involve the National Research Council of Turin and the National Institute for Sustainable Vine Protection. Thus, Professor Mannini and Professor Schneider, like talent scouts, set out to discover Liguria's historic grape varieties. They scoured the entire territory, from west to east, from the sea to the mountains, until they came across a mysterious mother plant in the municipality of Arcola, with an important strain from which, once the genetic sequence was extracted, they would identify the very Ruzzese historian they were looking for. Source: (https://ruzzese.wine/portfolio-item/ruzzese-storia/ )

VIVC: https://www.vivc.de/index.php?r=passport%2Fview&id=22772

Parentage: Unknown

Tasting notes: Wines from Ruzzese are known for their delicate and lovely aromatic profile, expressing bright floral, minerality, salinity and citrus notes typical of their coastal Ligurian terroir. Structurally, the wines possess good alcohol levels but a characteristically lower acidity than other Rossese Bianco variants, resulting in a softer, yet fresh and expressive palate.                               Source: (https://winesafariitalia.com/grapes/ruzzese)

Food pairings:

• Artisanal & Blue Cheeses
  • Aged Blue Cheese
  • Pecorino or Parmigiano
  • Gorgonzola
• Dry Pastries & Desserts
  • Biscotti & Cantucci
  • Panettone / Pandoro
  • Baked Apples & Pear Tarts
• Nuts & Dried Fruits

Production areas: La Spezia province in eastern Liguria

Producer: https://www.autoctovino.com/grape/ruzzese/