RARE GRAPE VARIETAL RESOURCE

Coming from northern Italy, peverella was the first white variety of Vitis vinifera to reach Brazil, brought by Italian immigrants in the late 19th century. It was diffused in the Gauchan mountains starting in the 20th century, and in the 1940ies it was already the main variety of white vinifera cultivated in the State of Rio Grande do Sul, staying in that position until the mid 1970ies, when it became practically extinct with the arrival of other vinifera varieties, boosted by the strong marketing of the New World wines, which led to an increase in planting of other viniferas by the viticulture industry.
Peverella comes from pevero, which in Venetian dialect means pepper. Small dark spots on the grape skin, recalling peppercorns, and a slightly hot sensation on the palate gave the variety its name, and guarantee a unique typicality and distinctive character to it.
Nowadays, peverella is practically becoming extinct in its place of origin, the Gauchan Mountains, and in Brazil there are few vineyards left, concentrated in the region of Bento Gonçalves, varying between 50 and 100 years in age. Specialists say that this grape variety is unique to this region, as others have lost their cultivation, even its area of origin in Italy. According to information given by the Embrapa Uva e Vinho (the Brazilian governmental organization concerned with viticulture and enology), in 2008 there were 17.7 Ha of peverella in the state; in 2011, the last year of registration, only 9,6 were left. This means, that if nothing is done, there will be no more time to rescue this variety. We are not only talking about a type of grape of historical importance to the area, but of resistance and resilience, because even though many years have passed since its arrival in Brazil, production is still good and the wines are of excellent quality and typicality. They also help the sustainable work of small organic and biodynamic producers looking for varieties that are well adapted to the region, produce well and are resistant to disease. Its rebirth could be fruit of an extensive work of research, exchange of ancient knowledge and recovery of its cultivation. It is necessary to give tools and tangible, more sustainable solutions to the small producer so he can stop working with genetically “improved” varieties, in order to valorize what we have in terms of identity and tradition within our region.

(Courtesy of Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity – Ark of Taste) https://www.fondazioneslowfood.com/en/ark-of-taste-slow-food/?fwp_arca_settore=wines-and-grape-varietals-en)

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