The historic grape variety of the Hautes-Alpes, cultivated exclusively in this region. The variety is characterized by by large bunches of resilient, thin-skinned grapes, black-blue in color, with a firm and juicy pulp.
Mollard has long been used locally to make red wine. In the past it could even be found grown by farmers who did not sell wine. It was in effect a rustic variety—dominant before the arrival of phylloxera—that was grown for home consumption.
Red wine made from Mollard is located somewhere between the wines of Mondeuse Noire (Savoy), whose bouquet of black pepper and spices it recalls, and those of Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc (Beaujolais).
In the 18th century it was found in the Durance Valley, in the Gapençais and in the Embrunais, and it was described in 1868 by Dr. Guyot in his Etudes sur les Vignobles de France. All of the Mollard vines in production are at least 30 years old, with the exception of six vines planted in 2009.
Mollard produces a fresh, light wine with a beautiful garnet color. The alcohol level is moderate because it does not accumulate high sugar levels. It has a good acidity that serves to support the aromas of spices, vanilla and berries. The marc is distilled to make a 50% abv brandy.
In the early 1990s, Marc Allemand, a historic winemaker of the Mollard who was anxious to preserve biodiversity, embarked on the rehabilitation of the grape variety. After 10 years of study and selection in collaboration with the Institut Français de la Vigne and under the leadership of France Agrimer, two plants were finally chosen to be preserved and reproduced in order to revive production. In 2005 the Mollard was also listed in the French grape varieties catalog.
The Allemand estate, the flag-bearer of the Mollard, remains today the holder of the vineyard from which all the new certified plantations of Mollard are taken, among which are the plots of Yann de Agostini in the Domaine du Petit Août. The last plantation was funded in 2016 by a crowdfunding campaign with the support of Slow Food.
(Courtesy of Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity – Ark of Taste) https://www.fondazioneslowfood.com/en/ark-of-taste-slow-food/?fwp_arca_settore=wines-and-grape-varietals-en)
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