Madrasa (Matrassa) - Slow Food RARE GRAPE red

Madrasa (or Matrasa) is a local red grape variety named after the village of Mədrəsə in the Shamakhi region of Azerbaijan, historically known as Shirvan region. Currently, Madrasa vines are grown in several villages in Shamakhi and Ismailli districts located between 700 and 800 meter of altitude, where small-scale producers generally dedicate part of their vineyard to this variety, mainly for their own consumption. Shamakhi and Ismailli are mostly mountainous areas, with the highest peak, Babadag, that rises to 3,629 meters. The landscape varies deeply, from steppe to foothill meadows and forests, such as the climate, highly influenced by the territory mountainous geography and close location to the Caspian Sea. Due to this peculiar location, these Azerbaijani wine regions can face different type of weather, from dry, to very cool to wet and therefore, the varieties that grow here must be very rustic and robust.
Madrasa wine is among the vintage wines that make up the so-called “golden fund” of the ancient Azerbaijani winemaking tradition. Wine production in the area is a millenary activity, as testified by several ancient findings, such as jars buried with remains of wine dating back to the 2nd millennium BC. The Greek historian Strabo, who visited Northern Azerbaijan in the I century AC described the cultivation of grape crops as so many that the inhabitants were unable to harvest them.
Madrasa grapes are medium sized with a slightly oval shape, and grow in conical clusters of medium density. The grapes go to bright pink to dark blue when fully ripen, with a thick waxy bloom. The skin is quite thick and tears easily, while the flesh is greenish and juicy with a harmonious taste.
The plant is characterized by weak leafiness and shoots going from light green when young to brown greyish when older. Madrasa variety is quite rustic, very resistant in drought condition, but vulnerable to frost. The most common training system is trellised, obtained through simple structures made up of poles and wires capable of supporting the plants. The type of pruning derives from the local tradition and takes place during the winter period, when the plant is in full dormancy, with the aim of keeping the plants in their original training form. During the productive season the soil management will only concern the elimination of spontaneous flora without invasive operations. Full ripeness occurs usually in late August and harvest may take place as late as September, depending on the type of wine being produced and on the specific cultivation area. The bunches collected manually are then carried to the warehouse, destemmed, pressed and left to macerate for about ten days in special wooden containers. Immediately after the must is slightly filtered for several times by decanting in order to avoid the passage of residues. It is then left to rest for at least two months and then it is ready for consumption. Madrasa wines can resist naturally for up to two years without alteration, if stored in a cool place in wood, glass or clay.
The blue-black grapes are sweet and very juicy, predominantly used in coupage with other varietals. From Madrasa are produced richly coloured red wines, but also citrusy rosés, with a good level of tannins. The aroma is rich in fruits flavors, such as raspberry and wild berries, with a long finish.

(Courtesy of Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity – Ark of Taste) https://www.fondazioneslowfood.com/en/slow-food-presidia/madrasa-grape/

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Countries grown: Armenia, Azerbaijan