RARE GRAPE VARIETAL RESOURCE

The story of the Bacò grape may seem very peculiar, especially for its wine-making tradition is still present in a land that is now fully devoted to the production of sparkling wine, such as Marca Trevigiana. When European vine-growing suffered from some grape sicknesses, such as the infamous phylloxera, in the late 19th centuty, some European countries started introducing other varieties of the Vitis genus, less likely to get sick. This is how, in the post phylloxera time in Veneto, this hybrid forms started being grown from the sandy and graveled plains up to the hills, and beyond them, making it almost to the mountains. The historical production area of these hybrid grapevines is that of Quartiere del Piave. Bacò grape was obtained in 1902 by oenologist and breeder François Baco that crossbred the European and the American grapes (Vitis vinifera x Vitis riparia). This grapevine has elongated and compact bunches of grape, weighing from 100 to 150 grams, with small black grapes with a soft pulp. The grapevine is very vigorous and productive, so much so, that a single plant can provide many litres of wine, in perfect conditions. The wine that is made from bacò grape has a 10 -13% alcohol concentration, is bright-coloured and very acid. The taste recalls that of wild berries, with a touch of plum and some notes of herbs. It is made in the height of summer (the harvest was scheduled for 15th August in the past) since it cannot stand high temperatures and sudden temperature changes, normally relevant in September, for too long. It is a “wine non wine”, since it is made out of a grapevine called Hybrid Direct Producer that was banned, together with other grapevines such as Clintò or Isabella, by a 1931 law, given that these grapevines contain a high tannin percentage and may develop some substances that might be harmful to human health during wine-making. These grapevines were common in Veneto and in some Friuli areas until the aftermath of World War 2. The wine had to be drunk within 4 months from the harvest time, otherwise it would become vinegar. It has almost disappeared nowadays and just a few elders still own some Bacò grapevines to make very limited quantities of vin de casada for themselves only, because it cannot be sold.

The necessary research activity to include this product in the online Ark of Taste list was sponsored by the Ministy of Labour and Social Policies, General Directory of the Third Sector and Corporate Responsibility – notice n° 1/2018 “Slow Food in action: local communities playing a lead role for change”, pursuant to article 72 of the Third Sector code, as in the legislative decree n° 117/2017.

(Courtesy of Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity – Ark of Taste) https://www.fondazioneslowfood.com/en/ark-of-taste-slow-food/baco-grape-variety/

• Was hybridized in 1898 by Francois Baco who lived just south of Bordeaux, France. This extremely vigorous variety can be grown on relatively heavy clay soils, loams, and stony soils. It has an early bud break so should not be grown in areas that are prone to early frost. The grape ripens by mid-season, has good fungus disease resistance, and is winter hardy. This productive grape has long clusters of small to mid-sized blue/black berries, with good sugar levels and high acid. It takes well to malolactic fermentation to reduce malic acid. The wines can be made light or heavy. This dark purple/red wine can have notes of red cherries, blackberry, raspberry, and plums. while low in tannin, it can be made into a wine that has the full body of earth, chocolate, eucalyptus, and leather that ages as well.(https://www.hudsonvalleyheritagewines.com/heritage-vines)

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